In the last article, I briefly went over the history of suits. Today I will go over the most common Styles and construction methods used in making a suit.
The price of a suit can vary between one hundred and many thousands of Dollars. A valid question that we all have heard is Why are suits so expensive? Why is there such a massive difference in price? or how much should I spend in order to save face and not be called out for wearing a cheap suit?
The last question is particularly difficult to answer since I cannot speak to your budget however, I can tell you what constitutes the pricing differences between suits.
Cloth or fabric quality determines not only what the fabric is made of i.e. worsted wool, linen or silk but also how it is made, the precautions taken to insure the safety and well-being of workers and the environmental impact influence the price of the end product.
Low-quality fabric made of synthetic materials such as polyester or nylon are not as breathable as natural fabrics and do not drape as nicely in addition to being prone to peeling and showing signs of wear and tear much sooner than natural fabrics.
Vitale Barberis Canonico, loropiana and many others produce high quality, ethical and sustainable fabrics.
Construction is another major factor in determining the price. It takes between 60 to 80 hours in order to sew a suit by hand and canvassing takes most time .
Canvassing is sowing layers of canvas material made of horsehair and/or wool between the outer layer of the suit and the lining with loose stitches in order to provide strength and shape to the suit and can be padded or un-padded. It is very common in British Tailoring and can be absent in the Neapolitan School because of the climate.
This process can take about 40 hours to complete and is skill and labor dependent. Manufacturers who aim for cutting the cost can forego canvassing and simply glue the outer layers together which can shorten the construction time of the whole suit to roughly 45-60 minutes. The drawback of this is the lack of mobility since the dried glue is practically a solid object which drags the entire jacket one you lift your arm. This combined with other cost-cutting measures such as cutting the armhole bigger in order to fit different body types can cause the jacket to become increasingly uncomfortable. Imagine an un-breathable polyester fabric glued to and un-breathable polyester lining trapping in body heat and sweat moisture causing you to overheat just 15-20 minutes after putting the jacket on which by the way can cause permanent bubbles on the suit.
Branding is also an important factor. Like it or hate it, who you’re wearing can be just as important, if not more in some cases, than what you are wearing and it can mark up the price of clothing significantly. That does not necessarily mean that any and all brands are subpar in terms of quality. Ralph Lauren Purple Label for example provides excellent quality menswear which rivals the best bespoke tailors you can find.
With that said, let us take a look at the most common styles of suit jackets:
Lapels
Notch or Stepped lapel is the most common form of lapel and is widely used among all schools of tailoring. The British Style keeps the edges of the Notch sharp whereas the Spanish Style rounds them. Some double breasted suits from the 80s have notched lapels.
Peak or Pointed lapel is more formal and rarer than the Notched lapel, it is seen mostly on Evening clothing, double breasted jacket and sometimes on single breasted suit. It can be a little more difficult to pull off and if you decide to go with it on a single breasted jacket, do check the etiquette around the office as some offices might see it as a status symbol.
Shawl collar is the rarest of all and is used almost exclusively on dinner jackets and tuxedos and can only be found on bespoke suits.
Vents
Ventless jackets are most commonly seen in southern Italian tailoring in order to achieve the body fit that the Italians are famous for. Many tuxedos and dinner jackets are also ventless.
Single Vent was originally made for horse riding to allow the jacket to drape on the sides of the saddle. Nowadays it is acceptable for most situations but in my opinion they are best more casual fabrics such as tweed.
Double Vent is the style most common in British tailoring and most versatile. You can see them on suits, Tuxedos and dinner Jackets. Because of the military heritage it also allows one to wear a ceremonial sword without disrupting the overall silhouette.
Pockets
Patch pockets are the most basic and casual forms of pockets. They include a piece of fabric being sown on top of the body of the jacket. They are best with more casual fabrics and tailoring styles.
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Flap pockets are more formal than patch pockets, the practical use for the flap was to cover dirt and other particles from entering the pocket. They are best for day time suits and sports jackets. They can be cut at an angle in order to ease access to the contents while riding a horse. A small ticket pocket can accompany the suits that have this style of pockets.
Jetted pockets are absolutely the most formal. They are seen mostly on double breasted suits and evening wear. Flap pockets can be tucked in in order to simulate the jetted look.
Since the demand for quality menswear, a lot of made to measure companies have popped up in the last decade or so and that has allowed customers to have a lot of say when it comes to choosing your outfit. Half-canvases are a perfect example of that, they are sown on the chest, shoulders and parts of the back and glued on the sides. This allows manufacturers to be able to provide their clothing at a reasonable price and not sacrifice too much in terms of the quality, as a matter of fact you can choose fabrics made by the very best companies and have a made to measure suit for you.
While I cannot answer how much you should spend on a suit in order to f”it in” I can give you information about tailors from around the world to help you make the best choice that you can, so if you are interested to upgrade your wardrobe or your style subscribe here and we can take the journey together.
Yours Truly,
Farid Mahnad